She was a child there. She was being shaped into adulthood.
Years later, after nurses’ training in Rapid City, she’d
returned to the Agency hospital, same town, the hospital
where she worked on the same reservation where she was born and reared. First
school, first job—home, in a way, even though she lived a half day’s ride away.
She wanted to show me all of that, wanted me to see what I could of her childhood
really, and, at the same time, history of her people.
Sometime previous I’d asked her to take me to her precious places,
those places where significant things had happened in her life, the really
important things. I wanted to see those places with her. It was a joy for her
to remember and for me to watch and feel her explain.
First stop was a cemetery, where we hunted down her grandfather’s
grave. She knew where it was but hadn’t stood there before. Then we drove on,
all the way to a long crooked finger of land so high above the river it didn’t
go under when the Army Corps of Engineer’s finished the Big Bend Dam, far down
river. It was the far eastern bit of reservation just off Hwy 212. A little
park just off the road is hardly elegant, but the great blue lake the river
formed is gorgeous, so elegant against rough-hewn reservation boundaries that
it looks like Disney.
“There,” she pointed straight into the water. “All of that
life, so much of my history, our history is lost forever beneath the water.”
Who in South Dakota could stand against the dams 75 years
ago when they were built? Who didn’t rejoice with the kid waterskiing directly
over the old Agency on that perfect summer day? What on earth is not to like
about Lewis and Clark Lake?
That moment returned to me last week when Wright Thompson says
a similar thing in his new book, The
Barn: A Study of a Mississippi Murder. Floods explode down, into, and
through the Mississippi Delta area, he says, and have for more than a century. Flooding
has destroyed whole river towns. swallowed them up beneath rampaging water and
mud that swamp alleyways and streets and bury businesses and churches. In some
locales, Thompson says, locals swear “they can hear church bells ringing when
the currents move right.”
It's a beautiful image, isn’t it?—the sense that when the currents are just right you can hear church bells from churches long buried in the deep?
I’d like to believe that because that reservation memory
came back to me in a torrent when I read it in Thompson’s book, at least
something of what my Native friend was trying to teach me got home.
I know lots of empty places where I swear I can still hear distant
church bells.